Cork is a fascinating city in the south of Ireland. The home of monks, Vikings, princes and rebels, the rich history of this city is apparent in its culture, architecture and art. Wandering over streets that used to be canals, by quays and docks, here are just a few places you won’t want to miss in your Day in Cork:

MORNING COFFEE

Filter Coffee

Hipster values: serve 3fe coffee (Dublin-roasted, organic, fair trade) and Cloud Picker coffee (Dublin micro-roastery, visits farmers to ensure fair trade). This was the first third-wave coffee shop in Cork.

On a rainy winter morning, where’s the first place to stop before a day of shopping and eating? For coffee, of course!

As I poked into the small hole-in-the-wall coffee shop, the low dance music vibes and chill vibe put me at ease (what else can you expect when the baristas are also DJs?). The room is small, with minimal seating, but that just emphasizes the priority of the coffee here (the bar seems to be about half the room). Their dedication to coffee shows in their selection and preparation. They also have a case full of small foods: scones, sausage rolls, croissants, etc.

I ordered a pour-over of the 3fe Ethiopia and settled into my bench seat. Next to me, an American is trying to learn an Irish accent from a local (more challenging than it sounds). The room is full of young people, representing a mix of accents (due more to the local college than a plethora of tourists). Posters and art decorate the walls. The cozy atmosphere definitely warms me up as I prepare for my day. Exactly what I needed!

Hours:

Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm

Sat, 9am-6pm

Sun, 10am-5pm

(click on the image to enlarge)

SHOPPING

The English Market

Hipster values: a great place to find locally-sourced food and gifts

Ok, Ok. I know this is a typical “touristy” thing, but hear me out: though the venue does have that look, it’s actually a hub of local artisans bringing out their wares. It’s like a farmers’ market, but fancy. And in my book, there’s nothing wrong with that (even if it is a traditional tourist spot).

First opened in 1788, this market has gone through numerous transitions and face-lifts over the centuries, resulting in its current iteration: a sprawling labyrinth of food carts, vendor booths, and craft displays. For example, near one entrance, you can find My Goodness, “a vegan food company, which specializes in raw, living, probiotic foods.” I was personally drawn in by the local chocolate producers.

Be sure to give yourself a little time to poke around, discovering all the goods this market provides!

Hours:

Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm

Winthrop Arcade

Hipster values: this shopping arcade offers a broad range of shops from boutique clothing to flowers to conscientious beauty products.

Instead of giving you a number of individual shops to visit, I encourage you to just go straight to the Winthrop Arcade. A shopping arcade located off the famous Oliver Plunkett Street, this delightfully decorated shopping corridor is a fun place to spend a little time and a little money.

Some of the shops you’ll find inside are:

Rain Africa: self-described as “an eco-ethical bath and body company offering natural products made from wild-harvested African ingredients and bio-actives.” Personally, I want to buy everything in this shop (bring on the bath bombs and hydrating creams!), and I appreciate their commitment to natural and organic products.

The Best of Buds: this dreamy flower shop is everything you ever hoped a flower shop could be. Even if you’re just touring around the country, pick up some flowers for your AirBnb rental or hotel room. If nothing else, just stop by, admire the displays and smell the roses…and everything else!

Salingers Bespoke (men’s boutique) and Salingers for Littles (kids’ boutique): this boutique first specialized in custom-fit men’s clothing, not displayed in a “shop,” but in a “men’s room,” as the website says (think: wood floors, leather sofas and neutral colors). Recently, Salingers branched out into the adorable market of children’s clothing via their website, so if you want a hipster child-look no further!

The Rocket Man: a restaurant that serves local, seasonal produce in quick easy-to-eat falafels and flatbreads (for that snack you’re needing).

There are more businesses to peruse, with some being added in the near future. As this shopping arcade is constantly evolving, be sure to let me know if I’m missing your favorite venue!

For hours, I recommend checking each individual business’s hours, as they vary.

LUNCH

The Good Deli

Hipster values: focuses on sustainable eating, serves local, seasonal and organic food, fair trade, emphasis on waster minimalization, most meals are vegetarian (with the exception of a few fish dishes), can work with vegan/gluten-free customers

I cannot recommend this eatery enough!

To begin with, it’s situated in a comfortable glass structure, nestled within a garden (a literal Eden in within the city of Cork), with views looking out to the city. A fusion of New Zealand, Cook Islands and Irish culture, the food represents the value of Mana Tiaki, or guardianship for future generations, which is a beautiful sentiment for each of these cultures, and for our environment. And to top it off, the food is delicious!

The setting was intimate and friendly, and each table was generally occupied in the rotation of a variety of clientele: shoppers, young college students, a couple on a date and older foursome. I ordered the “seasonal tart,” comprised of organic leek and Ardsallagh goats cheese. It was served with a leafy green and pickled vegetable salad, which was so delicious I could have just had that as my main dish (seriously, so good).

During my meal, I was able to meet one of the owners, Clare, who co-owns the restaurant with her Maori partner, Kristin (hence the authentic fusion happening here). Despite the flurry of lunch-time activity, she was warm and friendly, informing me they have only been open since December 2017. She also pointed out their display of locally-made gifts, so if you’re still in need of something special, don’t pass this up!

A note about how to find the place. Look up “Nano Nagle Place” on your maps, head through the gift shop on Abbey Street into the complex. Go up the stairs, hang a left and continue walking until you pass by a cemetery on your left and enter the garden area. You’ll find the Good Day Deli situated in the center of this garden. (Look for building number 15 on the map)

Hours:

Tues-Sun, 10am-5pm (stops serving food at 4pm)

AFTERNOON MUSEUM

Crawford Art Gallery

Hipster values: significance space is allocated to local Cork-based historical artists, offers art to the public through free entrance

I wandered into this beautiful building in the afternoon, ready to pay my entrance fee, only to discover the entire museum is free to explore! Inside, you’ll find three floors of permanent and touring exhibitions. The allure of this art gallery is the focus on local and regional artists and scenery.

From the “Under the Goldie Fish” collection, the visitor is treated to various views of Cork over time (a friendly tour guide pointed out the small details of evolution on the city through the paintings, such as the transition from canals to streets-who knew?). My favorite room was titled, “What’s the Story? History, Memory, and Myth in an Age of Alternative Facts.” This room presented different points of Irish history through time, paying special attention to when the artist is presenting a perspective of an issue contrary to the popular understanding. The museum’s connection between art (modern or contemporary) and modern narratives sets it apart as something more than “just an art museum”–it invites the guest into a deeper conversation about history and truth.

NB: though the museum is open until 5pm, they close off the top floor at around 4:45ish.

Hours:

Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm

After April 8, Sun, 11am-4pm

DINNER

Franciscan Well Brewery

Hipster values: multiple award-winning micro-brewery, focus on collaboration with other Cork-based drinks and eateries

Hours for Pompeii Pizza:

Mon-Sun, 1pm-10pm

There are many aspects of this brewery/brewpub to enjoy. Whether it’s the live jazz music in the cozy pub, or the beer garden vibe in the covered, heated courtyard, you’re sure to find a spot to tuck into local beer and pizza. Like many breweries in Ireland, Franciscan Well is built upon the foundation of an old friary, utilizing the history and legacy in its modern-day approach to brewing.

When we show up, we decide to head outside and settle on a private bench near a heater. The wood-burning pizza oven is firing away, operated by Pompeii Pizza, and we select a quattro formaggio. And then, because it’s all so delicious, we go back for a second pizza! The combination of “real and rustic” pizza with our beer sampler (I loved the Friar Weisse) is heavenly and the perfect way to enjoy the evening after a day about Cork. If you’re still looking for a nightcap, why not head upstairs and check out the cocktail bar?